Laos

The Chinese border was a bit formal as usual but not longwinded which was a pleasure. We stamped out and headed for Laos. What a change, smiley happy people greeting you at the border, visas on application, no file of permits with red writing!  The entire group sighed a collective breath of relief as finally the holiday was about to begin.



Central Asia and China are some of the most interesting places you can travel, nearly guaranteed to get you a few dinner invites as you have experienced a country and people that few have heard of never mind seen. But it can be hard and it can be challenging, this is what makes it so special. Laos is a well trodden path with luxury’s such as English menus, western style loos, heck sometimes even the staff in the hotel can speak perfect English. Still interesting and fascinating, we try and get off the beaten track and find new and exciting experiences, but this is the time to wind down and enjoy. Nearly all the accommodation is hotels now, some fancy, some simple, but all good and clean.


Roadside lunch:

Lush valleys on our way through Laos:

Laung Nam Tha is our first stop for rest. We had bought some food at a local market in China but as plans changed we cooked up the lot at our accommodation and made ourselves at home in the small guest house we filled to the brim. The owner could be seen peeking out the window wondering if we had moved into stay as this was his first experience of an Overland truck in this part of the world. The following day some folks rented cycles and motor bikes and set off around the town to explore the rice fields and villages that surround this quaint little place. Recharged and ready to go we headed further into Laos.


Staying off the beaten track we drove through the hills and dense jungle to a village called Nong Khiew, a tiny place perched on the edge of the Mekong offering one of the most scenic boat rides in Laos, seven hours of river life and jungle surround you until you pop out at Luang Prabang. We booked everybody on the boat that took a far shorter route than the truck. It felt like an episode of Top Gear as Cher and I made sure everybody was on board safely and then ran back to the truck to start the race. 3 hours into our drive, with the road now following the river we spotted two boats in the distance and moments later we over took to assure our victory as a madly waving group of Odyssey travellers responded to the blasts from the truck’s horn. Cher and I arrived just in time to order a cold beer and look suitably relaxed, as the group docked at Luang Prabang.


Boarding the boats to Luang Prabang:

Stunning scenery along the river:

We hire our own boats to make sure we have plenty of room!

Riverside villages:

Temples along the river:

Piling into three-wheel motor bike taxis called Tuk Tuks we made our way through the pretty town to our hotel just on the outskirts. Checking in we discussed the next day’s activities. With so much on offer different groups headed off and do different thing whether it be kayaking down the river, swimming in waterfalls or doing a bit of shopping – it’s all here and easy enough to sort out and do. 3 nights to explore the town and enjoy the food is plenty as we prepare to head for Vang Vieng.


Waterfalls near Luang Prabang:

Luang Prabang is home to many beautifully decorated Wats or temples:

Beers by the river:

Vang Vieng is a backpacker hot spot, the law seems to have forgotten about this town or chooses to turn a blind eye. We booked into a rather posh resort to avoid the string of bars playing all the latest pop music. Everybody was pleasantly surprised by the restaurant leaning out over the river and manicured lawns. Now out of China we could buy cheese again not just lumps of pressed pre sliced stuff but blue and brie, camembert and gorgonzola. A cheese and wine evening was on the cards so we set it up for the following evening. Bicycles are also available for rent and many a cave is available to explore.


Restaurant overlooking the river - all rather civilised!

But the big must in this part of town is the tubing. The story goes years ago local people would use old tractor tubes to fish in the river; some travellers arrived and asked if they could borrow the tubes to float down the river and watch the world go by. As they were floating along they saw farmers and fisherman cooling beers in the water and so paddled over to purchase a few and so began what is today a marauding crowd of young and old floating on tubes from restaurant to restaurant, bar to bar, using the mud slides and tree swings to toss themselves into the river. Great fun, but probably not a approved by the UK health and safety commission, the life jackets are a welcome upgrade from last year. Much fun was had by all with a couple of hangovers thrown in to remind you not to have so much fun to soon again.

Stunning waterfalls and pools, and ropes to swing into the water on:

Vientiene is only a short drive away and the capital of Laos, filled with expats it does not take long to see why. Western shops and restaurants can be diluted with a visit to Buddha Park or one of the many Wats. But the comforts of home are all here left over from the predominantly French influence. Most folks took the time to visit the Buddha Park and balance the culture with a fun day at the water park. We had three nights of aircon and comfy beds before heading off into the jungle proper.


Parked up in Vientiane:

Amazing sculptures in the Buddha Park:

The next bit I don’t even want to write about in case somebody finds out what magic has eluded the Lonely Planet for so long. Will they bring tubes and beer to this little spot? I hope not. But in the centre of Phu Hin Bun National Park is a tiny eco resort. From these rickety cabins you can take a trip to a cave system stretching 7 kilometres before it spews you out in a jungle wonderland. But first we had to get there. A 5-hour drive brings you to where the truck has to stop. We then grab all our gear and pile into long tail speed boats, skimming only millimetres above the water with the boats propelled by what appear to be strimmer engines attached to propellers rather than grass cutters, whisk you up the river. Through villages and jungle, fallen trees and sandbanks cause havoc for the boat men as the wind further into the dense interior.

Long tail boats:

Our trusty boatman:

Stopping at a very small lodge with great friendly staff we checked into our basic accommodation.

Seems to be comfortable enough though!

The next morning we were back in the boats again to venture to the mouth of the cave and transfer into different boats. This is where it all got a bit interesting and when most wished they had bought a big, big torch. The river men who take you through the cave are different from the others as they have to be very specialised in what they do. They both have torches left over from the mining operations in 1850, well not quite candles and a parakeet, but not far from it. Long tail boats again, they pilot you through the narrow channels and vast caverns that make up this incredible system. At the half way point they have lit part of the cave and walking up the slippery slope we explored all the stalactites and mites. Then boats again until a good half hour later we could see the dazzle of light on water once more, lunch is served and then you get to do the entire thing again. A bit hair raising on the way back as you go with the flow but it was a great exciting and beautiful thing to do.

Into the caves:

The day before we had spotted a piglet roast on the menu and by the time we got back we had two piggies on the stick roasting slowly over the fire. Sitting on the deck overlooking the river with the smell of the hog roast lingering in the air made for a great night after a great days, no vegetarians on board was handy but I’m sure they would skewer a pumpkin too if the need be.

Swims and rowing in a small canoe that Denis dutifully sunk, the sun slowly waned and with full tummies we settled down for the following day and nearly the end of Laos.


Savannakhet is just a stopover point as we prepare to head for Vietnam. Vietnam is a bit fussy about letting foreign vehicles in and after a few inquiries we found it possible only with a police escort, well maybe not, we seem to attract enough attention with just our big blue truck.


So a sad good bye for now to Calypso and after one night in town everybody apart from Rich and myself (now promoted to temporary navigator and drivers dogsbody) boarded a private bus to Hue in Vietnam as Rich and I were going to drive down to Cambodia, leave the truck there and then play catch-up to rejoin the group in Hoi An.